Photo Guide: What to Shoot and What to Show the Inspector

There used to be two separate photo pages on this site. That was confusing. Everything is here now.

Part 1: What to shoot and keep

Inspectors photograph what they can still see. Once walls are closed, carpets replaced, and debris hauled off, only your images and notes explain what was there. Shoot early for your records (insurance, repairs, appeals).

Core rules when shooting

• Safety first. Do not climb unstable roofs or enter collapse zones for a better shot.
• Date and phone time are usually enough; leave location services on if you can.
• Wide + close. One room overview, then close-ups of damage details.
• Context. Include a doorway, window, or yard so the viewer knows where they are.
• Do not stage. No pouring water, no moving furniture to fake a flood line. See honesty guidance.

Suggested shot list

Outside

• All four sides of the structure
• Roof, eaves, gutters, chimney if visible and safe
• Driveway, yard debris, outbuildings, generators, fuel tanks
• Street view or mailbox if flooding or debris field needs neighborhood context

Inside (room by room)

• Doorway wide shot into each affected room
• Flooring, baseboards, lower walls (especially for water)
• Ceilings and upper walls for wind/rain intrusion
• HVAC, water heater, appliances, electrical panels if damaged
• Contents only when relevant to disaster damage (soaked furniture, broken windows into living areas)

Water-specific

• High-water marks with a common object for scale (tape measure, dollar bill, tool)
• Direction water entered if obvious (door threshold, window, foundation crack)
• Basement / crawlspace / garage as separate zones
• For more flood context: flood inspection tips

Wind / hurricane-specific

• Missing shingles, tarps, punctures, blue roof areas
• Broken windows, screens, shutters
• Tree impact, fence, and outbuilding damage
• See also: hurricane inspection tips

Repairs already started

Photograph before covering damage. If drywall is already open or flooring is pulled, shoot the exposed layers and keep receipts for materials. Tell the inspector what was removed and when. Honesty plus images beats a clean room with no story.

Part 2: What to show the inspector

Field inspectors have seen applicants open thick binders of hundreds of pictures and insist on reviewing every page, including near-identical duplicates. That does not help the case and burns the appointment. What you show at the visit should be few, relevant, and easy to scan.

Rules for the set you hand over

• No duplicates. One clear shot of a water line beats ten almost identical frames of the same corner.
• Keep them relevant. Only disaster-related damage at this property. Skip family snapshots, old renovations, and unrelated rooms that were not hit.
• Tell a story in a few frames. Exterior context, the failure point (water entry, roof opening, impact), worst interior damage, key close-up, already-repaired area if the damage is gone.
• Short and focused. Quality over quantity. A handful of strong photos beats a long, repetitive set.
• Label if helpful. A simple note like “kitchen - water to here” saves questions. Do not write a novel on each image.
• Let the inspector lead. Offer the short set when something is hidden or already fixed. Then stop.
• Do not stage. No poured “flood lines,” no rearranged debris for drama.

What to leave out of the visit set

• Burst-mode duplicates and “one more just in case” near-copies
• Blurry, dark, or unreadable images when you already have a clear one
• Photos of every sock and every drawer when a wide room shot plus one close-up covers it
• Pre-disaster family albums unless one before/after pair proves a real change
• Screenshots of text threads that do not show physical damage

How the inspector uses your photos

Your photos are support material, not the whole inspection. The inspector assesses the property in person. If damage is no longer visible, they may select one or two of your images and fill the rest of the official slots with their own shots. You do not get a better outcome by making them flip through a hundred pages.

Remember the required inspector shots: front of the home and at least one interior. That is why a full gallery of your personal pictures is not needed. The inspector still has to document the property their own way.

Videos of the event (optional, not required)

Video of the disaster as it happens can be powerful: floodwater entering the home, water rising on walls, or (in extreme cases) rushing water moving structures. A short clip showing something like four feet of water inside with more still coming in answers many questions about depth and intensity. It is a fast way to tell the inspector what happened.

Most applicants do not have event video, and that is fine. The inspector also cannot submit videos into the official case file the way they submit still photos. So video is not necessary. Clear still photos, water lines, and an honest walkthrough still do the job. If you have one useful clip, show it briefly; do not force a long playback.

Other video (after the event)

• Slow walkthrough with door labels ("kitchen," "north bedroom") if you want a personal record.
• Narrate briefly: "This wall was wet to here on day two."
• Keep files; do not rely only on social media posts that compress or lose data.

Archive vs what you show